“A Day in the Life of a Solo Traveller in Lyme Regis”
On a very blustering early morning, I slung my pre-packed bag (organised much?) and headed to my local train station excited for my weekend of exploring Lyme as a solo adventurer. As we sped down throughout the South West, with the Bristol drizzle beating at the blurry train window I thought ahead to everything I wanted to do in Lyme… Trying all the coastal delights, relaxing with a panoramic view or even embracing my inner Mary Anning and attempting to comb the beach for my own Jurassic discovery.
With these thoughts going through my head time flew by and soon we were pulling into Axminister Station. A quick hop off and onto the aptly named ‘Jurassic Coaster’ bus and we were en-route to Lyme Regis. After exiting onto the Main Street of Lyme, I had to control the irresistible urge to wander into every shop on my short walk down to the entrance of Austen’s Garret. I even managed to resist the temptations of all the goodies beaming up at me from the window of The Good Food Cafe & Deli next door to my destination, although I vowed to come back later to explore.
Walking up to the big, bold, blue entrance of, I tried to envision Jane Austen herself arriving here and entering the same wonderfully handsome doorway. After crossing the threshold, I continued to trace Austen’s steps up to the top floor, marvelling at the ornate wooden hallway, before reaching my home for the next few nights, Austen’s Garret.
Opening the door to Austen’s Garret you are immediately confronted with a panoramic coastal view with a never-ending horizon. The high-vaulted roof crisscrossed with wooden beams complimented the sea views and I already couldn’t wait to brew a coffee and watch the waves rolling in.
I drew my eyes from the mesmerizing view and quickly unpacked my bags, placing my well-loved copy of Austen’s Garret Persuasions on the window sill with a promise to read it later, perhaps even in the exact same spot that Jane Austen herself was in during her stay here!
After settling in and guzzling a coffee from kitchen’s cafetière I headed out to explore what Lyme had to offer!
Strolling along the beachfront I inhaled that breezy sea air that tickled your nose with sea salt and reminds you of just how fresh the UK coast is. My exploration took me along the beach, up and back down Langmoor gardens, a hidden leafy treat that makes you feel like you’re on a Jurassic adventure, before heading over to the famous Cobb.
Stretching out of the historic bay, The Cobb is a prominent icon in Lyme and, despite my initial dubiousness, I hauled myself up the eroded stone steps to the sea-slicken top that stretches out towards the marine aquarium. As I was staying in Austen’s Garret it was only right that I explore the charms that caused Austen to be smitten towards Lyme Regis.
With the Cobb firmly below my feet and the wind pulling at my hair I looked out of the bay and further towards the towering form of Golden Cap and with that Jane Austen crept into my head, the lines still quite relevant to this very day.
“The Cobb itself, its old wonders and new improvements, with the very beautiful line of cliffs, stretching out to the east of the town, are what the stranger’s eye will seek, and a very strange stranger it must be who does not see charms in the immediate environs of Lyme, to make him wish to know it better.”
After stepping back in time to envision Lyme during Austen’s era, my stomach loudly brought me back to the present day and indicated that it was clearly time for a fuel break.
Carefully making my way back down the Cobb I set out towards Kiosk to grab myself a bite for lunch whilst still embracing the sea breeze. Upon approaching the bright orange umbrella of Kiosk, the smell of freshly made bagels and chocolatey coffee beans wafted towards me as I reached the counter. After a lovely conversation with the super-friendly Kiosk staff and my order given (Halloumi, avocado and sweet chilli bagel of course!) I picked at random, one of the many orange and black deckchairs lounging about the sands and settled in to watch the sea.
A quick service later, with a toasty bagel and warming coffee in hand I marvelled at how wonderful the atmosphere on the beach was, with families tucked behind windbreakers, couples strolling the front arm in arm and other fellow solo adventurers happily exploring Lyme. With one eye on my bagel and one to the sky to prevent a seagull swooping in to steal my well-earned lunch, I munched away and decided my next course of action was to briefly set-aside Jane Austen and embrace my inner Mary Annings by combing the eastern beach in search of Jurassic treasures.
Setting off towards the East Cliff Beach, I passed the Marine Theatre and was overjoyed to see the vast choices on offer, from music to comedy, the ‘Shanty Session’ jumped out at me as I imagined the lilting sea shanties drifting out to sea. I endeavoured onwards, quickly moving from old to new, leaving the old cobbles of Lyme behind and reaching the sea defences that stretch towards my destination.
Enroute I stopped by the Mary Annings statue that commemorates her life as a pioneering palaeontologist and wondered if I too will find anything scouring the same beach Anning’s did in the early 19th Century.
Stepping down onto the sands I set off to find my own little spot amongst the wandering groups of beachcombers, each hoping to come away with a Jurassic treasure.
Time flew by and a few hours later I marvelled at my discoveries, a tiny fossilised sea lily stem and ammonite stared back at me from the cup of my hand. Other discoveries lay strewn by my feet but these two were my favourite finds. It was easy to see how you could lose hours digging away at the stones, but for now it was time to head back to Austen’s Garret.
Once back I popped the Amazon Alexa on and had a reinvigorating shower to my favourite music to revitalise me after the breezy beachcombing adventure. Thoroughly refreshed I headed out towards the Artisan Quarter, only a short stroll up and across the babbling River Lym, the ancient Mill soon towered out of the trees to greet me.
Wandering out onto the cobbled courtyard I stared up at the restored mill buildings surrounded me, offering a delight of creative inspirations, from the art gallery to the hidden pottery where you can watch the resident potter at work!
The micro brewery immediately stood out to me, located in the old malthouse its cosy interior of polished wood and gleaming metal enticed me in. One pint in hand later I set up outside to enjoy my pint al fresco style whilst watching the world walk by amongst the gurgle of the river and breeze rustling through the leaves overhead.
Finishing the last dregs of my pint it was now time for supper and where else to go but the Lyme Fish Shop, it wouldn’t really be a UK seaside trip without the classic fish and chip combo would it?!
My goodies obtained and safely nestled against my chest like a toasty hot water bottle I set out towards Marine Parade to find an empty bench in which to enjoy my treat. Locating one easily and with one eye still ever wary of the swopping seagulls, I happily munched away whilst staring out at the rapidly receding skyline as dusk began to set across Lyme Regis.
Thoroughly stuffed and with my head drifting slowly towards dreamland I made the short trip back to Austen’s Garret to settle in with a nice drink, Austen herself keeping me company within Persuasions, whilst watching the final stretches of the day disappear behind the horizon out the panoramic windows.
Sunset View from Austen's Garret
As sleep threatened to pull me under I already couldn’t wait to explore what else Lyme has to offer solo travellers the next day
